bike rearview camera on seatpost

It’s a dangerous world we live in. Among other things, road cycling is more dangerous than ever: road rage, distracted drivers, more drivers on the road, bigger cars, more blind spots, and people are always in a hurry.

Cell phones seemed like they would increase safety for cyclists thanks to the ability to call for help. But that was quickly offset by the number of drivers that are using the same devices behind the wheel. Fortunately, there are other devices that may increase your safety – or at least, help you get compensated for your injuries. I’m talking cameras and radar.

Here’s how to get set up.

Why Do You Need Cameras On Your Bike?

Now’s the time to invest in front and rear cameras for cycling. Here’s why:

  1. To capture evidence that can be provided to the police and lawyers. Whether you are hit and injured, or just witnessed someone breaking the law (e.g. not allowing 4 feet passing a cyclist), you won’t get anywhere without irrefutable video evidence. Cameras on your bike are your best bet to capturing evidence that it happened (and hopefully a license plate, too).
  2. To share recordings of dangerous areas with other local riders. You can upload this footage to the internet to bring attention to the dangers of certain roads, providing good info for fellow riders in your town. You’re helping others avoid the same dangers.
  3. To prove that crazy story of yours is true. Get video to support crazy stories no one would believe otherwise, like a black bear crossing the road in front of you!

It can certainly be fun to capture those unbelievable moments on camera, but I think the most compelling reason for installing this type of camera is to capture evidence of a crime.

(Similarly, I highly recommend installing a Vantrue N4 or similar dash cam in your car if you haven’t already.)

I’ve been lucky to avoid being run over, but I’ve been run off the road more than once, and witnessed countless acts of negligence during my rides.

This sort of thing happens all the time – just look at this subReddit called r/CyclistsWithCameras.

Here’s an example of a close call video:

[US][Florida][Jupiter] [OC]
byu/Renbo2023 inCyclistsWithCameras

Cycling deaths keep increasing. We need to do something.

For me, that means focusing on the one change I have control over – my riding, my bike, and my accessories.

Choosing a Camera

There aren’t very many options for cyclists, so you don’t need to make this overly complicated. But you do want to make sure you’re putting your money to good use.

Should I get front and rear cameras?

Using both front and rear cameras is recommended. That will give you the best chance at capturing the “full picture.”

A rearview camera is the only feasible way to record someone hitting you from behind. In those worst-case scenarios where a driver runs right into you, it’s the rear camera that will record it. (Hopefully both you and the camera’s SD card survive.)

A front-facing camera will capture so much more. It may capture a motorist passing you too closely, pulling out in front of you, or cutting you off making a left- or right-turn directly in front of you. That type of dangerous – and illegal – driving behavior. It’s the front camera that will capture the incident and possibly a license plate.

If you have both, you can string footage together and make a better argument against reckless drivers.

The “must-have” features

When choosing front and rearview cameras for your bike, there are two features that are absolutely vital:

  1. A wide-angle lens for a wider field of view. This is how you capture things happening up close.
  2. A date and timestamp automatically encoded on the footage. This is proof of the time and place.

You also want the best quality sensors you can get, so that your recordings are high-resolution, regardless of lighting conditions. Audio recording is also helpful because you can essentially add voice notes over the recording to describe what’s happening and read license plate numbers aloud. A robust camera housing, continuous loop recording, and crash detection provide extra peace of mind that your footage is safe.

Not essential, but very convenient, is to have a headlight or taillight built in. Then you don’t have to worry so much about all the extra devices you need to attach to your bike.

Here’s a quick reference list of all important features:

  • Wide-angle lens
  • Date and timestamp encoding
  • Audio recording
  • Shock-proof camera housing
  • Quality sensors that can handle bright light and low light conditions
  • Loop recording
  • Auto-save footage when a crash is detected
  • Built-in lights

Don’t rely on a smartphone or GoPro

A GoPro is a great action camera. They’re great for recording your friend on some sick line, or capturing race footage you plan to upload to Youtube.

Smartphones are very handy because you can run Strava and take pictures of the great vistas you encounter on your rides. And with some of the mounts available today, you can capture video or even livestream while riding.

But neither of these devices are meant to be used as safety cameras.

For starters, you want to have a fixed mount on your bike. You don’t want to use a chest-mounted camera or a helmet camera.

And you don’t want to move the camera during your ride. If you’re using your smartphone, chances are you will use it periodically.

And neither offers an integrated headlight or taillight.

What will this cost?

It’s understandable if you have price concerns. High-tech devices aren’t cheap.

It will cost you at least a few hundred dollars to set up front and rearview cameras. You could get started for around $200, but a good setup will run you $500 or more.

But I don’t look at this like a bike technology purchase, like an upgrade to the latest Garmin Edge GPS computer. I consider it to be “bike insurance.” More of a required fee, like life insurance or car insurance.

I don’t have to maintain an insurance policy on my bikes like I do on my cars. But I imagine if I did, I might want to budget $500 for it. (I assume everyone is paying at least $500 per year on car insurance for state minimum requirements.)

So for my “bike insurance budget” I can put that toward these cameras because these cameras are the best insurance policy there is if a driver hits you when you’re cycling.

Is there any reason not to set up cameras?

I can’t think of any reason not to set up cameras on your bike. The only real reason is if you can’t afford it. Otherwise, it seems like a very smart choice.

The cameras are fairly easy to install. It’s a negligible weight penalty. And it doesn’t inconvenience you any more than setting up and recharging your existing bike technology (e.g. GPS computer, front and rear lights).

Best Rearview Cameras for Your Bike

There are only a few viable options. But these aren’t cheap, so it’s smart to research and compare!

Best Front + Rear System: Cycliq

Cycliq is the only company to offer both front and rear cameras: the Fly6 and Fly12. They’ve been making cameras since 2012 (more than ten years!), and the latest models are quite nice.

cycliq fly6 and fly12 front and rear bike cameras

The Fly6 ($239) is a rear camera and taillight combo, and the Fly12 ($319) is a front camera and headlight combo. Each one includes a compatible bike mount (seatpost mount for the Fly6 and handlebar mount for the Fly12), safety tether, USB cable, and 64 GB microSD card. Everything you need to get started!

Control the cameras and sync and share videos using the CycliqPlus smartphone app. There’s also a desktop version for further viewing and editing.

The Cycliq cameras include all important features listed above, and you can buy the set for $558.

Learn more and order online at Cycliq.com.

[Note: All Cycliq products are currently unavailable on Amazon.]

Budget Pick: TOOO Cycling DVR80

The DVR80 rear camera from TOOO Cycling launched on Kickstarter in 2021, and despite that funding project being canceled, the product came to life and is currently available.

While the DVR80 is the lowest-priced safety camera on the market at $195, the tech specs show this to be a quality offering. In fact, it’s probably the highest-quality rearview bike camera available! It uses a Sony IMX 307 CMOS camera sensor inside, and coupled with impressive image stabilization technology, the HD video footage is remarkable!

My only question is, when are they going to make a front camera?!

Learn more and order online at www.tooocycling.store.

Best Camera + Radar: Garmin Varia

Garmin Varia began as a radar system to detect cars behind you and alert you with visual and audio cues. It’s one of those things you don’t think you need, but once you try it, you wonder how you ever lived without it!

Imagine you’re riding a rough road, or going really fast downhill with lots of wind noise – sometimes you don’t even hear the loud cars approaching. Never mind the electric cars that are super quiet to where you might not hear them approaching even in a calm setting! The Varia has your back. This radar system will detect the cars even if you can’t hear them, or if you’re spacing out and not paying attention at all.

Also, if a car is passing you, you might not be able to tell if it’s one car or if there’s a lineup. But the radar knows. And it shows you. So the Varia radar is more helpful than you might have realized!

But what does this have to do with rearview cameras?

Good question. The Varia radar is super cool, but it doesn’t record anything.

Well, that all changed with their new RCT715.

garmin varia rct715 rear camera radar taillight

The new Garmin Varia RCT715 is a radar taillight with an integrated camera.

Previously, you’d have to choose between the Garmin Varia radar (proactive monitoring) and the Cycliq Fly6 rearview camera (recordings to prove what happened). Now you can get both in one unit for $400.

And you can pair it with your smartphone or existing head unit (Garmin Edge, Wahoo Element, etc.) Quite convenient if you are part of the Garmin ecosystem and already rocking a new Garmin Edge on your handlebar.

Of course, you would still need to buy a Cycliq front camera or similar to have full video recording coverage.

(But Garmin makes dash cams for cars, so perhaps they’ll have a front-facing camera for your bike someday.)

Learn more and order online at Garmin.com.

The Garmin Varia RCT715 is also available on Amazon.com.

Most Versatile Combo: Garmin Varia Rear Radar + Cycliq Front Camera

When I consider all the available products, plus the ultimate goal of riding unharmed, I think the most practical solution is to get a Garmin Varia for your rearview and a Cycliq camera for up front.

Personally, I’d get the Garmin Varia RTL515 (the radar + taillight) and the Cycliq Fly12 front camera + headlight.

The Varia radar helps you be more aware of your surroundings so you can take evasive action as necessary. It won’t capture anything on camera, but it may keep you safe.

The front camera will catch many of the traffic violations mentioned earlier, e.g. an oncoming car makes a left in front of you rather than yielding, the “right hook” where a passing car turns right in front of you (or into you), as well as the close call of not giving you the required 3′ or 4′ berth when passing.

What you’re most likely to miss without a rear camera is when a motorist bumps into you at a stop sign or red light. But with the Varia radar, plus a side mirror, and your reflexes, you can take evasive action as necessary to prevent that from happening.

What about just using the Garmin Varia?

If you do lots of city riding in lots of traffic, I’d suggest having the camera. Generally speaking, more cars means more opportunity for disaster. (And if you know there is a steady stream of cars, the Varia won’t tell you anything you don’t already know.) But if you do lots of riding on rural roads with only occasional traffic, the Garmin Varia is fantastic. It’s super useful on its own, and may help to prevent accidents in the first place!

I’d still recommend you have a mirror as well. It comes in handy for seeing exactly what’s there. But if you’re zoned out and don’t know there’s a car in the first place, you wouldn’t be looking in your mirror. The Varia helps avoid those surprises!

And don’t sleep on the taillight! The Varia actually changes the rhythm of the taillight, changing to a faster tempo as a car approaches from behind. A driver may notice that and assume they are being recorded and decide against making any aggressive maneuvers, even if your particular Varia only has the radar and not the camera.

 

Other Options

How to Set Up Your Cameras

Let’s say you purchase the Cycliq cameras or a Garmin Varia. How do you get them on your bike?

Fortunately, all these cameras come with mounts and instructions. Sometimes even an SD card. So you’re off to a good start.

But… you probably have other devices already mounted on your bike. And you might have other bags or accessories that interfere with the default mounting locations for these new cameras.

Here’s how to set up these cameras in real-life situations.

Where to mount?

The first question is, where to mount the cameras…

Generally, you should mount the cameras on your handlebar and seatpost. Or at least, very close to those areas. You may have to use a stem mount instead, or move the mount to your rear rack, or buy a seat rail mount.

Regardless, you want to have a fixed mount. Something that’s convenient. You want this recording to be second nature. It should be no more difficult than mounting your GPS device and/or lights each ride and remembering to charge them between rides.

All the recommended cameras here include universal mounts for either a handlebar or a seatpost. These use rubber bungees to secure them in place.

Those mounts are fine to get started. Eventually, you may want to upgrade to a more securely mounted adapter made of metal.

You can buy these accessories in various forms – or if you’re handy, make one at your local DIY/makery space.

corki mount to put garmin varia on saddle rails

Mounting to your seat rails rather than seatpost is quite helpful for a few reasons. One, it’s more out of the way. You might be able to still run a seatbag. And it won’t interfere with clamping the seatpost in a repair stand. Two, more long-term durability. Those rubber bungees are great for quick, temporary applications, but this should be more permanent to the bike.

Consider the K-Edge Go Big Pro Saddle Rail Mount, a svelte metal attachment that goes on your seatpost rails. Or the PRO Saddle Camera Mount. There’s also one from Corki that’s pretty cheap (pictured above; available on Amazon).

What if I have a seat bag?

You might not be able to fit both. Consider an alternative bag or alternative mounting system.

Or you can get the KOM seat bag which has a built-in Garmin Varia mount on the back. It’s slick!

The DIY solution here would be to poke holes in your saddle bag and run some cable ties through, securing a standard Garmin mount onto the material. But your Garmin Varia deserves better!

There are also some nice mounts made by bup labs.

What if I have a rack and panniers?

If you plan to utilize the storage space on top of your rack, that would block your seat and seatpost area, so you’ll need to fashion a mount on the back of the rack. Don’t worry – you’re not the only one looking to do this.

The short answer is that yes, you can probably find a mount that matches your rack. Garmin and Cycliq make them, as do some third parties. But there is no one size fits all solution. You may need some bolts, nuts, and washers, and a drill or a Dremel, to rig up a custom mount.

Some people take seat rail mounts or stem cap mounts and customize them.

There is a lot of discussion within the Garmin product forums. Here’s a popular rack mount for the Varia. This Amazon customer review shows how simple it is to take a Garmin stem cap mount and attach it to a rear rack.

Mounting a camera on your handlebar is relatively easy by comparison.

If you have plenty of space, the included handlebar mount is fine for the Cycliq Fly12.

If you want to clean things up, the optional Duo Mount bolts onto your handlebar and holds both the Cycliq Fly12 camera and headlight, plus a Garmin or Wahoo head unit.

But for a similar price, you could get a really classy combo mount from K-Edge. Highly recommended!

Sharing Your Recordings

At some point, you’ll want to share your recordings. Hopefully it’s to share good things!

But you may also share recordings as warnings to fellow cyclists.

Social media can be helpful. As mentioned, the r/CyclistsWithCameras subreddit. That’s this one where I first saw the example from above. That clip got reposted on r/Bicycling and got more attention. But also, local groups. Your local cycling club probably has a Facebook group.

upride map of cycling incidents near boston massachusetts

Perhaps even more important is to catalog incidents and keep a record of dangerous, negligent driving. Benefit the greater cycling community by uploading a video clip to Upride.cc. The purpose is to:

  1. Raise AWARENESS of cycling safety and support education for road users.
  2. Provide the only detailed source of INFORMATION to help planners design safer roads.
  3. Give authorities the evidence they need to PROSECUTE dangerous drivers.

They’re looking for crashes, close calls, or even just bad roads.

 

I am not a lawyer!

 

Show References

3 Comments
  1. What if I use the Garmin Varia rear camera and a Garmin Dashcam Mini up front?

    • @Tinker

      Clever! I like how you think.

      A couple issues though. First, the Garmin Mini dash cam is powered by your car. To use it on your bike, you’d need a rig up a power source. Some sort of rechargeable power bank you can tap into. Granted, there are USB power banks that come with attachments to hook to your handlebar. So it’s not out of the realm of possibility.

      The other issue is mounting it. You don’t have a windshield. So you’d have to fabricate a mount of some sort. Again, it’s possible, but is it worth it?

      And even then, is that dashcam waterproof?

      But hey, if you can make it work, I’d love to see it!

  2. That DIY alternative to the KOM bag is probably more durable. Their attachment points are not properly reinforced so eventually you’ll rip it right out!

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