Today’s question is about getting a new road bike to ride for getting in shape and getting into racing…

Hi, I was just hoping you could help me decide on a bike. I am deciding between a Giant TCR A1 and a Gary Fisher ARC Super. Both are about the same price. I’m looking for something to get in shape on and race with. Please send me some advice, I am really new to biking.

Thanks,
New Neil

Hi Neil,

Welcome to biking – I hope you like it! (I know I do!)

As for the bikes – both the Giant and Gary Fisher look good for general riding and are more than capable of doing some racing. I can’t see anything wrong with either one.

For general fitness riding, all you need is a bike that fits comfortably. For getting into racing, you just need fitness and a bike that isn’t broken. So I think either bike would fit your needs.

When the decision comes down to two similar bikes like this, the deciding factor should be the test ride. Have the shop give you a quick fitting on each bike and then take a few short test rides. Chances are, one of the bikes will just feel like a better choice for you. That’s the one to get!

In the odd chance that you like both bikes equally, even after test riding both, there are two ways left to decide. You could either buy the cheaper one, or pick the one in the color you like better.

If you’re still uneasy about the decision, you can do what I do, and that is to use your imagination. Pick a bike and pretend that you bought it. Envision it sitting in your garage, and envision riding it each day. If you still like that bike, get it. If you get an uneasy feeling (like buyer’s remorse,) get the other bike.

In the end, you can always be happy just by the fact that you have a bike to ride!

So you just picked up a new road bike to take advantage of the beautiful sunny weather. It’s a great bike that cost about $1200-1400. That got you some pretty good parts, like a full Shimano 105 drivetrain and a decent wheelset.

Some bikes that fall into this category are: Trek 2.1, Giant Defy 1, Specialized Allez Sport, and Cannondale CAAD9 5. These bikes all fall into the price range, although each one has slightly different parts.

Despite it being a new bike, you probably want to upgrade some components now or in the near future. Here is how I would do it:

Day of Purchase

The same day you purchase your bike, you should make a few changes or upgrades.

First, make sure you’re getting a comfortable saddle. Some shops have loaners that you can borrow for test rides so you know which one works for you, before plunking down $100+ for one that looks neat but is totally uncomfortable. (The Selle Italia Flite, Fizik Arione, and Fizik Aliante are popular choices, but what matters is getting the one that fits your behind.)

Next, you most certainly want clipless pedals and shoes. Going to a clipless pedal system (instead of platform pedals) will totally transform your riding experience for the better. This could cost anywhere from $100-450 or even more, but it’s worth it.

I’d also get some bike-specific clothing at this point, if you don’t have any yet.

The First, Most Important Upgrade

If you have some extra money and you’re just itching to get some new bike parts, there is one upgrade you can make that will make more of a difference than all others combined.

And that upgrade is new wheels and tires. Lighter, stiffer, smoother, and/or more aerodynamic wheels will noticeably increase your performance and make the bike more fun to ride.

Some of the nicer wheelsets include Mavic Ksyrium SL, Williams s19, Williams s30, Neuvation R28, Reynolds Solitude, Shimano Dura-Ace, and Zipp 404. The Williams and Neuvation wheels are great values at $300-500, with other high-end wheels costing $800 or more.

To go with the new wheels, you definitely want new tires. Heck, even if you can’t afford new wheels, getting new tires will still make a huge difference in your bike’s ride.

I’m a fan of Michelin tires – I love the Krylion Carbon as well as the Pro 3 Race. Other popular tires are the Continental Grand Prix 4000, Vittoria Open Corsa, and Hutchinson Fusion. These top-of-the-line tires will cost about $35-65 each.

(If you’re low on cash, a tire upgrade is going to make a huge difference and is definitely the most bang for your buck.)

Upgrading Other Bike Parts

Once you have upgraded the wheels and tires, your bike should feel great. If so, you’re all set. But if you want to keep going, here are some more ideas…

If the bike came with carbon seatpost, great. If not, get a carbon seatpost. That will add comfort and save some weight at the same time.

You could also go to a carbon handlebar for more comfort for your hands and arms. It’s not super important, but if you have any sort of hand discomfort, an anatomically shaped carbon bar could help.

The other parts to consider are brakes. Most brakes on bikes in this price range are cheap, no-name brakes without a lot of stopping power. If your brakes work alright, but lack a little stopping power, the first upgrade is actually new brake pads.

Sometimes the small switch to high-quality brake pads will make a huge difference in stopping power.

Now, if the brakes are bad enough that they don’t work well at all, it’s time to replace them! Maybe you ride in hilly areas and your brakes feel weak and spongy on the downhills. New brakes, perhaps Shimano 105 or SRAM Rival, will give you greater safety and confidence, since you know the brakes will stop you if necessary.

Upgrading the Drivetrain

The natural instinct is to upgrade the bike’s drivetrain, so you might be wondering why it’s so far down the list. But believe it or not, your Shimano 105 drivetrain is going to work nearly as well as Dura Ace.* It might not be quite as stiff or shiny, but it’s close enough.

What you’re really paying for with the upgrades is weight savings, and there are much better places to save weight on bikes in this price range.

* If you have shifting issues, most likely the drivetrain needs adjusted. If it is setup properly, it should shift flawlessly. (Also, a double chainring setup will shift much better than a triple, so keep that in mind if your triple setup is a little rough.)

Performance-wise, the best drivetrain upgrade would be shifters. That’s where you really feel the difference. (Since the shifters control the derailleurs, it’s likely that upgrading the derailleurs and not the shifters, everything will still feel the same.)

Weight-wise, upgrading the cassette should give you a pretty good weight savings. Sometimes the cassette will be a super cheap one that weighs a ton, since the casual observer won’t notice it. (As opposed to the rear derailleur, which “screams” its name thanks to the big logo on it.)

But before plunking down money for upgraded parts, be sure you can afford your regular replacement parts! The cassette, chain, and chainrings will wear out from normal use, and they’ll need replaced.

** Another thing to consider is, in this price range, you won’t always get a full Shimano 105 drivetrain. You might see some Tiagra and Sora parts. Tiagra parts are alright, but not as good as 105. Sora parts, well, they are worth upgrading!

Don’t Forget, You’ll Need Replacement Parts

Before spending money willy nilly, be sure you can afford to replace the parts that will wear out.

Drivetrain parts need replaced on occasion. The chain will need replaced 2-3 times per year, the cassette once per year, and chainrings may last 1.5-2 years. (Of course, this varies by mileage and your maintenance schedule.)

Cables and housing should also be replaced periodically. Once per year is more than enough, unless your cables get covered in gunk from wet and muddy rides, or if you see the cable fraying. (If the cables aren’t moving smoothly or if there’s rust or fraying, it needs replaced.)

The handlebar tape will need replaced too. This is a fun upgrade because you can change the color to give your bike a new look.

Lastly, the cleats for your clipless pedals will wear out. Plastic cleats could need replaced as often as once every 3-6 months.

Final Thoughts on Upgrading Components

Upgrading components can be fun and exciting, but buying purely on emotion will burn through your money real fast. You should first upgrade the parts that will give you the most bang for your buck, and then move on to the other parts. And don’t forget that many parts will wear out and need replaced, so you want to have some money saved for that!

In any case, it’s your bike, so have fun with it!

Today’s question is about a mountain biker switching to road racing, wondering if he should start out with a regular road bike or with a full-blown time trial (TT) bike…

Coach Levi, I am an internationally-ranked sailor in the 470 class (high performance Olympic dinghy) and I have been a dedicated MTB cyclist all my life (16 years haha). I am very interested in beginning a time-trial cycling campaign. Is it wise to start off my road career with a full-blown time trial bike if that’s what I plan to compete in? I am looking at the felt B16 as a starter bike. Is all this a good idea?

Thanks so much for your time, I love reading all the helpful tips on your website!
Shone the Sailor

Hi Shone,

This is a very good question! Being a mountain bike racer myself, I considered getting a dedicated TT bike as my only road bike since I planned to do time trials if I did any road racing.

But you know what? I was only able to find one real TT race in my state, and the majority of popular races I wanted to do were actually hill climb time trials. And since those typically require a lightweight road bike as opposed to an aerodynamic-but-heavy TT bike, I decided I had very little use for a dedicated TT bike.

But there are more pros and cons we can look at…

If you get a full blown TT bike:

You’ll have a great racing bike. If you’re heart set on TTs and are positive you won’t be interesting in long road races, criteriums, or riding in a peloton, go ahead and get the TT bike.

It will also be fine for solo training rides out on the open road.

Unfortunately, when you specialize like this, you lose versatility. A TT bike will not be a good option for group rides or road races. The aero position is relatively unstable and is frowned upon in group rides, as well as illegal in regular road races. (The races are dangerous enough with everyone on easy-to-control bikes.)

Plus, it is not so great for hilly areas, since the bike is heavy and has fewer hand positions suited for climbing. Descending will be tough, especially if there are any sharp turns.

And if you have a lot of city riding, starts and stops, pedestrians to dodge, etc., the unstable aero position is going to be aggravating.

If you get a road bike:

If you get a standard road bike instead, you’re going to gain a lot of versatility but give up a little bit in aerodynamics.

For most people, I would recommend a regular road bike because it’s more versatile. You can compete in a wider variety of races, be comfortable riding in varied situations, and join in group rides.

When you need to race a TT, use some aerobars and an aero helmet and you’ll still do well. It’s only when you’re capable of holding speeds well over 20-25mph for an entire race against other high-caliber racers that the shaped tubing and super low position of the TT bike will help.

Being an internationally ranked sailor, I’m betting you know the value of hard work and dedication to your training that is necessary to achieve great results. And to really excel in the top ranks, eventually you would need a dedicated TT bike anyway. So for you, a Felt B16 might be the right choice.

But an aerodynamic road bike like the Cervelo S1 (formerly known as the Cervelo Soloist) could be a good compromise. It’s a very aerodynamic road bike and starts around $2200, just like the Felt B16. You’d need to purchase aero bars separately, and you’d give up aerobar shifting capabilities, but you’d gain a ton of versatility.

The Final Decision

As always, the choice is yours, but I urge you to consider all the options, put together a preliminary racing schedule, and test ride the bike before making a final decision.

Final tip: If you do get the TT bike, be sure to get it at a very good shop that offers bike fits from a qualified professional. Bike fit is always important, but even more so in a TT position. Since you’re hunched over and don’t really change position while riding, you must have a perfect fit!

Today’s question is about buying the right type of bike for a mountain biker that’s getting hooked on road biking.

I am 29 years old and pretty new to cycling, have been riding MTB for about 3 years. I even got into a few mountain bike races this year and found them to be a ton of fun. I just started road cycling this summer and need some advice if you don’t mind…

I was given a 20 year old Raleigh road bike this summer. I put about 4-5 hundred miles on the old girl, and discovered I really like riding on the road. I am up to riding about 50 miles at a time, and would really like to work my way up to a century ride next season. I want to get a new bike. But I have a question…

I have been considering buying a cyclocross bike and putting skinny tires on it. Would this be a bad idea? I know that most come with a compact crankset, but I think I would be OK with that. Are there any reasons I’m missing why I should not do this? I am not overly concerned about weight because I could stand to lose a few pounds myself. Any help or suggestions would be appreciated.

Thank You,
Cyclo-confused

Hi Confused,

I think cyclocross (CX) bikes are great… if you’ll make use of its potential.

For example, if you’ll be riding on dirt roads or through lots of mud as part of your normal schedule, it’s great. Racing cyclocross? Even better.

But for long road rides or road races, well, a CX bike is not so great. Here are my reasons you might NOT want a cyclo-cross bike:

• If you’re on normal roads all the time, a CX bike is overkill. There’s no need for cx geometry since you won’t be hopping barriers or navigating technical sections. The bigger tires are unnecessary outside of mud and sand pits. And the mud clearance from the cantilever brakes won’t be utilized.
• Cyclocross bikes are expensive. Even the base models are $1200-1500, because beginning riders aren’t really attracted to cx racing. Outside of CX racing, a typical road bike is better suited to most riders.
• Compact cranks can be deceiving. The compact cranks are for CX; they’re not the typical compact cranks you’d see on a road bike. A normal road bike might be 53×39, a compact 50×34, and a cx compact 46/38. A cx crank will limit your top speed on smooth flats and downhills, and it really won’t help climbing since the small ring isn’t so small.
• Thirsty? Since CX races are short and intense, some dedicated CX frames omit water bottle cage mounts. A water bottle would either fall out of the cage or get in the way when carrying the bike, so they’re typically not used.
• A little heavy. A good CX bike won’t be too heavy, but why get a heavier bike unless you need its strength for CX racing?.

So if you want to ride dirt roads and minor trails or even jump into a CX race, yeah, a CX bike would be great. But I just don’t see much reason to get one otherwise – the deck is stacked against them.

I rode a CX bike for a while and thoroughly enjoyed being able to ride the dirt roads in comfort while still being fast on pavement (compared to my mountain bike.) It wasn’t race-winning fast on the road, but it was plenty fast for training rides.

But it’s not really applicable to racing unless you are doing CX races. The bike will be too fragile or illegal for cross-country mountain bike races, and not perfect for road races (especially with the gearing.) So the cyclocross bike always seems like a great idea for a well-rounded, fun bike, but it really isn’t as great as you’d think.

So unless you absolutely need a CX bike, you might as well stick with a regular road bike.

Photo credit: johnthescone