Cycling jerseys are great inventions. It’s so convenient to fill the back pockets with food, bike tools, CO2 pump, etc.

Then there are triathlon jerseys, with maybe one small pocket in the back. You can’t carry much other than a gel packet.

So how do you carry stuff if you’re out there riding a triathlon on your own? You might be riding up to 112 miles, which usually requires gear!

Here’s how I would carry the essentials for a triathlon:

Carrying Water

On bike:

For a shorter triathlon, my ideal water bottle would be one of those aero bottles that hangs down from your aero bars. These bottles come with a straw, allowing you to drink without leaving the aero position.

If you will need more water, you could carry a regular or aerodynamic water bottle on the seat tube of your bicycle.

If you need more water than that, you could get a water bottle holder that goes behind your seat and holds two bottles.

If you need lots of water and have money to spend, consider a system such as the NeverReach (www.NeverReach.com.) This holds plenty of water and lets you drink from the aero position! A slightly cheaper alternative to the NeverReach is the SipAway (www.SipAway.com.)

What I would not do is get a hydration pack for a triathlon. Those take a while to refill and are not comfortable in the aero position.

On run:

A Fuel Belt (www.FuelBelt.com) is my personal choice for carrying water with me while running. They have a variety of options to suit your personal needs.

Similar hydration belts can be found from Amphipod (www.Amphipod.com.)

Another company is Nathan Sports (www.NathanSports.com,) which makes hydration belts and other goodies, such as a device to hold a 20oz water bottle in your hand without using your grip strength.

Carrying a standard water bottle in your hand for the whole run is a pain in the butt and outdated strategy!

Carrying Food

On bike:

The gold standard for carrying food on your bike is a Bento box (seen here.) This is a small pack that velcros around your bicycle frame and sits on your top tube, near the stem. That makes it easy to access while riding.

You could carry energy bars, energy gels, cookies, etc. in a Bento box.

If you just want to carry energy gels, there are a few other options:

The cheapest solution is to tape the gel packs to your stem and/or top tube. You tape the pull-off tab down so you can easily rip the good part of the gel off and consume.

If you don’t want the mess, look at this interesting invention called the Gel-rilla grip (seen here.) It attaches to your bike and then clamps the gels down so you don’t have to mess with sticky tape.

Also fairly inexpensive is getting a gel flask for $5-6 and getting a stem mount for it.

Another option is to get a Gel-Bot bottle, which stores gel in your water bottle.

To get your electrolytes, try the SaltStick (www.SaltStick.com.) This little device will actually sit inside your aero bars or clip anywhere on your bike, allowing you to carry a sort of salt tablet anywhere you want.

Or, to avoid solid food, try drinks like Hammer Perpetuem or Sustained Energy, which provide hydration and are very high in calories.

On run:

I would make use of my Fuel Belt again. You could either carry a gel flask in it or pin energy gels to the belt.

Normally I’d do gels safety pinned to shorts, but that wouldn’t work so well with tri shorts that you’ve been wearing for the swim and bike already.

Carrying Accessories

On bike:

If you are racing self-supported, your best option is to carry your spare tube and tools in a seat bag.

You may be wondering if it’s worth it to get a triathlon shoe or if your regular road bike shoes will work for the occasional triathlon…

I have been biking and doing triathlons for about 6 years now and i am just getting competitive. I have always just used some sidi shoe that a friend gave me but they are way past their time of replacement and i finally have the money to get a new pair of shoes!

Is there a difference in a “Road” shoe and a “triathlon” shoe? if so is it so much of a difference that i would need to get both?

I am racing competitively and im not slow by any means! I have won my last 5 or 6 road races on the bike and plan to do the upcoming half ironman in new orleans. I just need to know if i need to buy two different pairs of shoes for biking or is there one that can be used for both and does not sacrifice anything.

Keep in mind i need to be able to slip out of the shoe itself in a triathlon while still riding the bike (relatively fast and easy) so i think Velcro is the way to go.

Thanks,
Triathlon Tim

Hi Tim,

The main purpose of a triathlon shoe is to let you slip in and out quickly, even with wet feet.

Typically a triathlon shoe will use a single Velcro strap, and it will have a wide foot opening (sometimes referred to as “tongueless” design.) These features make it easy to get the shoe on and off quickly. Also, there is usually a nice seamless liner that makes the shoes comfortable to wear without socks (similar to how triathlon-oriented running shoes are made.)

With a road bike shoe, you’ll probably have two or three Velcro straps and/or a buckle closure. This is great for adjusting the shoes for the perfect fit, but it’s not a time saver. Cheaper shoes might even have laces, which take a long time to tie and untie.

What it really comes down to is that road shoes are designed for comfort and performance, while tri shoes are designed for quick transitions and performance (and for sockless comfort.)

A tri shoe will look like this.

In the end, you could get by with one or the other. With the tri shoe, the fit might not be perfectly dialed in, but it should be fine.

With the road shoe, it would probably be more comfortable and stable. It would be a bit slower for the transitions, but working with two Velcro straps instead of one doesn’t add that much extra transition time.

Where the road shoe’s secure fit would really shine is in the sprinting and attacking that takes place in most road races. (Whereas you’re keeping a steady pace, usually seated, during a tri.)

Sure, I’d prefer to have both shoes, but you don’t need to start out with both. If you’re racing Cat 1/2 or Pro on the road, you definitely want dedicated road shoes.

High up in triathlons? Get a tri-specific shoe.

If I was going with just one shoe, I’d get a good road shoe with two Velcro straps.

If I had to give out any more tips on run/kayak/bike triathlon training…

I am a solid runner and a recreational kayaker and have decided to try a mini ironwoman with a 6.2 mile run, a 5 mile kayak and a 27 mile bike 7 weeks from now. Do you have some mixed sport training advice?

Thanks,
Mixed Mara

Hi Mara,

I’m assuming you have read this article – Run/Paddle/Bike Triathlon Training Tips. It covers most everything about training for and competing in one of these triathlons.

But I can’t emphasize enough the importance of the “brick workouts” where you tackle two or three different disciplines back-to-back in one workout. Everything just feels so different if it’s preceded by a strenuous workout of some other type.

So if you only apply one thing to your training, make sure it’s the brick workouts. Whether it’s run then kayak, run then bike, or a full run-kayak-bike session, just do it.

These articles from other triathlon sites might help too:

Introduction to Bricks and Build Triathlon Success with “Bricks”

Just keep in mind that with kayaking instead of swimming, your legs might stiffen up and cramp while stuck in the kayak, leading to a slow start on the bike leg. That’s why I really think full run-kayak-bike workouts are important in these circumstances. (A run-kayak or a kayak-bike workout is good, but doesn’t really capture the race experience.)

Another cyclist suffering through indoor training and wondering about some DVD workouts to get through it all…

Just got started on cyclo core workouts and like them. Question: I got a bike trainer and am wanting some workouts. I am a poor cyclist, do not like to ride outdoors in the coll tempatures. Do you have any good DVD bike workouts to get me in shape for triathloning for 2009?

Thanks, DVD Donna

Hi DVD Donna,

I rarely use indoor trainers and the corresponding workout DVDs (since I prefer rollers and some music,) but I can point you in the right direction.

If you like Cyclo-Core, you might like Cyclo-Zen, which includes a set of “Yoga Spin” intervals – it’s a 45 minute workout combining time on the trainer with power yoga. There are also some online spin classes available in the Cyclo-Club membership site that look interesting.

But the biggest name in indoor workouts has to be Spinervals. They offer a ton of DVDs, and some focus on time trials, which would be similar to the training you need for a triathlon’s bike leg.

Here are some of the Spinervals videos that might be best suited to you:

Competition 14.0 – Totally Time Trial
Competition 22.0 – Time Trialapalooza
Triathlon Performance 5-Pack (contains 5 relevant DVDs in one handy package.)

And here is a review I did of one of the workouts, to give you an idea of the style:

Spinervals 4.0 Muscle Breakdown DVD Review

Next in line is probably the CTS Train Right series by Chris Carmichael. Here is one DVD that focuses on time trials:

Train Right – Time Trial DVD

Surely one of those options will get you in shape! Good luck with your triathlons in 2009!

My first ever real triathlon (the Curwensville Lake Triathlon) was May 17, 2008. It consisted of 4.4 miles of running, 5 miles of paddling, and 15 miles of biking.

Since my swimming skills are pitiful at best, I welcomed the paddling (canoe/kayak) leg! I had never paddled a kayak before, but floating down the river in a boat seemed a little more beginner-friendly than jumping into the open water with hundreds of people around me!

You can also avoid swimming diagonally in the wrong direction in open water and even better, there’s no one to kick you in the face as they pass! Since you don’t get in the water at all, you also avoid the need for a wetsuit, goggles, and other special tri shorts and tank tops. (That stuff is expensive!)

If you don’t have a canoe or kayak, chances are there is a local shop that will rent one for a small fee the day of the race.

So now we know how great these tris are; here are some tips if you enter one:

1. Train for the Event, Not for Each Leg.

You have probably done some training for running, cycling, and/or paddling. But have you trained for the triathlon? To do well, you need to train for the combination of events, not just the separate events.

So you need to have ‘run then bike days’ or ‘paddle then bike’ days (sometimes called brick workouts) so your body gets used to the stresses. If you can plan the logistics, go for a run, a paddle, and a bike ride consecutively!

2. Visualize Transitions.

Even if you don’t have nifty triathlon gear, you can still practice to get the fastest transition with what you have.

For example, triathlon-style cycling shoes have one big velcro strap. They are very easy to put on and take off, one-handed, without looking. However, my road shoes have two small velcro straps and a ratchet strap. It’s pretty hard to mess with them one-handed, and getting that ratchet strap started requires a little attention from my eyes.

Despite that, I practiced a few times and figured out a strategy that isn’t perfect, but it will save me a little time. Hey, every second counts!

So think it over in your head. Really visualize the entire race.

Here’s an example from my race – getting out of the water and getting going on the bike. Here’s how it goes down…

Kayaking in water… eye up landing area. Unzip or unhook PFD. Hit kayak on shore. Put paddle down and step out of boat onto shore. Dont’ get feet wet. Stick paddle in boat. Drop PFD in boat. Drag boat along shore to docking area.

Run to bike. Grab helmet, put it on. (Helmet is hanging between handlebar and brake cables; shoes are clipped into pedals.) Untie sneakers and drop them. Slip right foot into right shoe. Pedal 1/2 stroke. Put left foot on top of left shoe. Pedal a few strokes to get coasting. Slip left foot into shoe. Close all velcro straps. Pedal a few more times. Tighten ratchet straps.

Then tuck down into an aero position and ride faster.

3. Practice Transitions.

Now that you have a visual of how it should work, get out there and practice the transition!

Just a few sessions will really cut down on your transition times, and even just one run-through could reveal flaws in your visualization.

Best of all, it will create less stress. While losing a few seconds won’t be a big deal outside of the professional level, the aggravation of a transition not going as planned will really get into your head and break your concentration, which could cost you the race.

4. Store Stuff on Your Bike.

I start riding after I get my helmet on. My shoes are attached to the bike but my feet are on top of them. My sunglasses are either on my face while kayaking or stuck in the vents of the helmet. My water bottle is in the cage. My gels are taped to the handlebar.

There is no need to adjust your sunglasses, strap your feet in, or get a sip of water while standing still. You can do all that stuff while riding. Even if you’re riding slow, you’re gaining a lot more ground than if you were standing still.

(Tip: some racers rubber band the heel of their shoe to the pedal to keep it upright.)

5. Multitask the Whole Time.

If you have small tasks to do, try to do them while moving. Eating and drinking, for example, should only be done while moving. It’s easiest on the bike, fairly easy on the run, but not so easy while paddling. So eat and drink the most while running and riding.

Gotta ditch your PFD, goggles, or something? Do it while you’re running through the transition area. Don’t stand still. (Once you stop, you have to start building momentum all over again.)

6. Rehearse on Race Day.

When all your stuff is setup, walk through the transition one last time. Memorize the exact path you have to take from your boat to your bike so you’re not looking all over the place during the actual race.

7. Make a List.

First, make a list of everything you need for race day. Then make separate lists of what you need to leave at each transition area. You might need a kayak, paddle, PFD, and water bottle. Then your bike, helmet, cycling shoes, 2nd water bottle, sunglasses, etc at the next one.

(My swim-bike-run packing checklist is a good start for creating your own list.)

8. Don’t Get Wet.

The great thing about this type of triathlon is that you don’t get wet, unless you fall in. (By the way, don’t fall in!)

You’ll be much more comfortable if you’re not running and biking with wet, muddy feet, so try to stay on dry land when launching and landing your boat.

9. Watch out for Cramps.

Here’s the thing with these run-paddle-bike triathlons. You start out using your legs, then you use your arms (and stick your legs into a little compartment,) and then you use your legs again.

Well, my legs really stiffened up in that hour between the run and bike. Sure, I stretched them as much as I could without tipping the kayak, but getting on the bike sucked after that!

10. Label Your Stuff.

Put your name and phone number on everything you might leave lying around. Transition areas can get messy and you definitely don’t want to lose a bike, kayak, or running shoes!

Some people have the same bike or kayak, and in my experience as a race photographer I have seen more than one mixup!

Now put all these tips into practice and get back to training so you can win your race!