I have a question about when it’s best to come out of the saddle in a TT. I certainly understand doing it at the start and possibly if cranking up an incline, but I often see riders doing it at the finish. I find that I prefer to just keep my head down and drive through the finish since it’s generally flat terrain conducive to a 30+ mph pace anyway. At that speed, it seems like getting out of the saddle makes you extremely non-aerodynamic. Am I wrong or is it just a preference thing for each cyclist?

Thanks,
Stan InTheSaddle

Hi Stan,

That’s an excellent question!

I think you’re on the right track. Staying in the saddle is almost always the best method, barring the start line and possibly on steep hills. And the better your TT equipment and position, the less you would want to break position. And if you have energy left over for a sprint finish that is somehow faster than your current aero position, you didn’t do a good job pacing yourself for the time trial!

One rule of thumb is, at 23mph or above, stay in your aero position. 20-23mph is kind of a gray area, but really, staying seated is still probably better.

You didn’t say anything about the riders you see standing at the finish line, but unless they are top pros or you know they are highly skilled, I wouldn’t worry about what they’re doing.

If they are just average local racers, they may be misguided, thinking every race has a sprint finish. Mass start races have sprint finishes because the sprinters try to rest as much as possible during the race to save energy for a sprint finish. That’s not how you ride a TT!

Also, if they’re riding on a regular road bike with no aero equipment, maybe it is just a tad faster to sprint. By getting out of the saddle, they’re losing less of an aero advantage than they would if they were going 30+ mph on a dedicated TT machine.

I’m a big fan of testing different methods, so you could test what is faster for you, but in this case, I think you’re spot on already. If you have a real TT bike, stay in your TT position through the flat finishes.

To Coach Levi:

Found your site here the other day and been reading it since then. I am a 44 years old man living in Norway 183 high and 85 kg, think I am in a pretty good shape. Have a “huge” problem here. I have been biking real hard since April 2010. So I am not a real biker with a lot of years in the saddle.

Now I have done some really stupid and need some advice so I can survive here. I will start in two tour races this summer, one is one day from Bergen to Voss. That one i think i will manage. If I just use good time and hold my pulse down. The other one is trickier – www.vikingtour.org – 7 Days 953 km 15.800 m climbing – Fjords, Waterfalls, Mountains, Glaziers.

So then my question is. If I survive the day, how do I recover as good as possible for the next day. My biggest problem is to get enough calories in when I’m out biking, but here I need all I can get. Will it be vice of me to go for a little hike before I go to bed, just to move my muscles in another way? I am in the world league when it comes to sleeping, but is just sleep a good way to recover for me, I need a lot of food/calories to. So have you any advice to a not skilled biker who try to kill him selves in the great nature at the west coast of Norway.

Biking Bjørn

Hi Bjørn,

It sounds like you have quite the adventure ahead of you! I think it’s good to challenge yourself like this, though – otherwise you don’t realize what you are capable of.

The biggest problem I see with newer riders is that they set themselves up to not be able to recover. What I mean is, for one reason or another, they push themselves too hard, too early in the race or tour. This leads to cramping, muscle soreness, low energy, bonking, etc. It’s hard enough to recover from a week of long rides, let alone when you go harder than you are capable of!

Sometimes you see the pros make mistakes and have bad days in the grand tours. But they are so well conditioned, and they have such a helpful support crew, that they can be back on form the next day. Unfortunately, in your first couple years of riding, you don’t have that luxury, so you have to be extra careful.

Here are my tips:

1. Ride within your limits.

So my #1 tip is to ride within your limits. Don’t push too hard on the climbs and don’t ride with too fast of a group. Take it slow, especially on the first few days. Remember – you have to pace yourself for the day, but also for the week. (Easier said than done!)

2. Evening recovery.

For recovery in the evenings, you could try some walking/hiking or some self-massage techniques to keep your blood flowing. I recommend you do something, but what you choose is more of a personal decision. Me personally, I like wearing compression socks and rolling my legs with something like The Stick or Muscle Trac.

3. Proper nutrition.

You already know you need to keep eating and drinking. So eat anything that doesn’t upset your stomach. And start eating as soon as you start riding each day. Again, food choice is a personal decision, so try to figure out what your favorite riding foods are while you’re doing training rides.

4. Sleep.

Sleep is great, and it’s good to be skilled at sleeping! Some people will have trouble sleeping in different locations along the tour, but if you can sleep soundly each night, that’s a big help! A good night’s sleep each night could be your best recovery between stages!

5. Follow through.

I think you have a good idea of what to do, you just have to make sure you do it!

Sometimes it helps me to actually write down all the details of what I should be doing each day. Just little reminders to eat this, drink that, keep pulse under ___, go to sleep at ___ and wake up at ___, etc. It might sound unnecessary, but it’s surprisingly easy to get distracted out there.

6. Have fun.

Make sure you have fun out there! You’re not in school or at work, you’re out riding!

Lastly, enjoy the scenery! I checked out the tour’s website and it looks like something I’d like to do someday!

Hi Levi I am 15 yr old male and recently rode 100km race in restricted junior age-group gears (rollout 6.610). I raced at an average of 90RPM and my time for 100km was 2hours 41. The winning time by cyclists on open was 2:23. I am trying to work out how I measure up in real terms. So can you tell me what sort of disadvantage to my time would the restricted gears have made? I am basing my training remained on restrited gears even in the off-season and trying to increase cadence rather than focus on large km training and power output.

Thanks,
Restricted Ricky

Hi Ricky,

First, let me applaud you for taking such an interest in the specifics of your training and racing! It really shows your dedication.

Now, as to doing the calculations and getting worthwhile comparisons, that’s no easy feat. It might not be worth the time and effort, but that’s up to you.

I can’t tell you not to attempt it, because when I was a junior mountain biker, every race I’d compare my lap times to the pros and try to factor in all the variables to see how our times would compare over the same distance!

So…

You could start out using a gearing calculator and get some numbers. As a rough estimate, 90rpm in your biggest gear might yield a speed of 23mph (37 kph,) compared to more like 33mph (53 kph) in a bigger gear like a 53×11.

But, where do you go from there? There are just so many variables. Terrain, elevation, racing tactics, etc.

Based on your finishing time, it looks like you did average around 37kph. The overall winner averaged about 43kph – faster than you in absolute sense, but he didn’t max out his gearing. And you can’t really assume that you could ride a 53×11 at 90rpm if you were allowed. All I can safely say is your time on open gears would have been between 2:41 and 2:23.

Sure, it’s fun to run the numbers, but it’s extremely difficult to get worthwhile data. I think you have a good idea focusing on cadence during training, and you should keep focused on training to maximize your performance with the equipment you have. Don’t sweat the small stuff.

Good luck and have fun with your racing!

And unless you choose to use 8-10 safety pins to hold it down, that number plate might catch some wind, flap around, and subsequently take a fraction of a second off your time!

Kidding aside, safety pins aren’t the only way to attach your number plate to your jersey.

You can also use tape or glue to stick your race number to your jersey. This could save weight and help the number sit closer to your jersey for better aerodynamics. It also avoids the potentially painful prick of a safety pin into your skin!

So, if you want to try something new, your options include:

Race Number Tape

First up, there is actually specialty tape made just for this purpose! I have heard of two brands, but I don’t know much about either one. The small amount I’ve read about them online shows mixed feelings. And at roughly $17 per roll, I don’t think it’s worth trying.

Links: www.RacerTape.com and www.GrizzyGrip.com

Fabric Tape

There is a product called “Instant Bond Double-Sided Fabric Tape” that is just $3 per roll at Walgreen’s. It is made for sticking two pieces of fabric together.

It might work with a number, or it might not. Or maybe it will come loose when it gets sweaty. I wouldn’t risk it.

Shipping Label Envelopes

You’ve probably seen these on boxes shipped UPS or FedEx. They are little plastic bags with adhesive on one side – you put a shipping label/invoice inside, then stick it to the box.

You could try to re-purpose these by putting your race number inside it, then sticking it to your jersey. However, I’m not sure how well it would stick to a jersey, and it probably isn’t any lighter than using safety pins.

Link: www.ULine.com

3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive

Last but not least, we’ll look at spray adhesive. Your two main options are 3M Super 77 Spray Adhesive or 3M Repositionable 75 Spray Adhesive.

To use it, you spray it on the back of your number. Let it dry to a slightly tacky finish, then position the number on your jersey and press down firmly. If you did it right, your number will be a big sticker that will lay flat on the jersey, so it won’t flap in the wind.

However, there are some complications. First, you need to get the amount of adhesive just right. Too little, the number may start to peel off during the race. Too much, you’ll probably be left with a sticky residue on your jersey. Second, if you don’t remove the number immediately post-race, the adhesive could set and really leave your number stuck on there.

Link: www.3m.com

My final verdict is…

While getting your number plate to lie perfectly flat is a noble cause, these tapes and adhesives seem like more trouble than they are worth. I don’t think it’s worth the effort, except maybe for an important time trial when you are completely decked out in aero gear.

If you try any of the above options, I recommend the 3M spray adhesive.

In the end, safety pins are super cheap and reliable in all conditions. And if you use proper “flat pinning” technique, the number should lie flat.

I am a 57 year old male and I am toying with the idea of road racing.I started training back in the late fall and my base is coming along ok. Do you think I should throw my hat in the ring this season or is it to late at my age to even try? Thanks for your input!

-Old Owen

Hi Owen,

You’re never too old to start racing!

Unless a doctor (or significant other, or someone else that’s very important) forbids you to race for a legitimate reason, I don’t see why not. I have ridden with and raced against guys older than you, and quite a few of them can still put the hammer down! Heck, just the other day I was emailing a guy who is 61 years old and a cancer survivor – and he still puts a hurting on some of the other riders in his group!

Since you’re asking about it, I think it’s safe to say you have an interest in racing. Especially since you’re talking about your “base.” You sound like a racer already! So I say, do it!

You will want to be familiar with the pack riding dynamic before entering your first race, but once you are used to having riders in front of, behind, and on each side of you, you can learn everything else as you go along. And I would start with some relatively safe races (time trials and smaller road races) before jumping into competitive criteriums where there is a big pack of riders and lots of sharp corners.

To sum things up, make safety a top priority, but don’t let your age hold you back from doing what you want!

(If anyone else has words of wisdom, or encouragement, for Owen, please chime in in the comments.)

For most recreational racers, I’d guess you’re only doing a couple time trials each year, at most. If that’s the case, you’re probably not going to shell out $1000′s to get a disc rear wheel for better aerodynamics. You’d be much better off spending your money on parts applicable to the races you actually do most often!

But what if you could get the benefits of a solid disc wheel for under $100? That might be worth thinking about.

The website Wheelbuilder.com has an interesting solution for better aerodynamics on a budget – a disc wheel cover.

This is basically a plastic disc that attaches to a regular spoked wheel via little bolts or electrical tape. There is a 400g weight penalty for this, but once attached, your wheel will resemble a real disc wheel like you see on dedicated time trial (TT) bikes.

While the aerodynamic benefits might not be as good as a real disc wheel, the disc cover costs $89.95, which is a fraction of the cost of an aero wheel, like the $2075 Zipp Sub-9 Lenticular disc wheel. For racers doing the occasional time trial, this cover makes a lot of sense.

Wheelbuilder.com offers covers to fit many popular wheels, and they will also do custom trimmed covers for your specific wheels for $15-25 extra. (I have heard of other disc covers in the $60 price range like the CH Aero disc cover, but don’t see a reliable online source at the moment.)

But before you go rushing off to buy a disc cover, here are a couple things to keep in mind:

• I have not personally used one, so I can’t comment on how well it works in practice.
• If you do hill climb time trials, stick with your regular light weight wheels. This isn’t for you.
• Since you have to remove your cassette to install this cover, you do need a bit of mechanical ability and a couple special tools.
• If you don’t own an aero TT helmet, consider purchasing one of those before a disc wheel cover. It may be more beneficial.
• If you are new to racing and not really at your peak fitness level, there is no need to shave seconds off your time by buying a disc wheel cover.

That said, the aero disc wheel cover is a pretty neat idea, and could be useful for some racers.

(From the Clif Bar Youtube Channel.)

If you have not yet gotten into any endurance racing, you might have expected him to talk about daydreaming and playing games in his head to keep him occupied and ward off boredom. But it’s almost the exact opposite.

It doesn’t really matter whether you’re doing a 60 minute cyclocross race, eight hour triathlon, or 24 hour solo mountain bike race. The thought process during the races is very similar. You are constantly thinking about your next stride or pedal stroke, thinking about how to go even faster.

Unlike a long training ride where you might be cruising the back roads by yourself, contemplating the meaning of life, a race requires constant attention. If you want to win, you stay focused on the race.

So listen to Chris McCormack, because obviously his strategy is working!

Great site! Just found it. Question: my Robbie Ventura DVD mentions you should reach match your race intensity during your warm up. As a Cat 5 racer (24miles) how long should I “warm up” at that intensity? I keep thinking I’ll burn out or waste to much energy during my “pre-race” warm up.

Thanks!
Warming-up Willie

Hi Willie,

Excellent question! Warming up can be tricky but it’s extremely important – in some cases, in can make or break your race.

You’re on the right track so far. You definitely do want to hit your planned race intensity during your warm-up. A lot of people don’t realize that, and then they end up in a state of shock when the race heats up for the first time. There is a slight chance you’ll wear yourself out before the race starts, but there’s a much greater chance that you would get dropped early if you don’t perform a substantial warm-up.

Now, to answer your question…

The best answer to your question is also a vague one – you need to warm up hard enough that your body is ready to race, but not so much that you wear yourself out. The exact time will differ based on the individual, the specific race, the weather conditions, and how you feel that day.

Looking at your race, it’s 24 miles. (I’m going to assume you mean a circuit race or something and not a time trial.) It might take an hour to finish. But you have to keep in mind, “race intensity” will vary greatly over that hour. So what I would do is include more than one intensity in your warm-up.

To give you a general idea for a starting point, after you do 10-20 minutes of easy and moderate riding, throw in maybe 5 jumps (short sprints, perhaps 5 seconds each, almost full intensity) and a few minutes of hard race pace intensity (perhaps as three, one-minute intervals.)

You could also set it up as a “ladder” type warm-up where you do one minute in each heart rate zone ( increasing difficulty as you go along,) then work your way back down.

There are many ways you can warm-up. As you train and race more, you’ll develop a better sense of how to read your body, and therefore better understand the fine line between not enough and too much warming up!

What worse way to lose a race than by getting disqualified for a simple rule violation?

So here is what to do when you get your race number from the registration tent…

First, get the number out of your bag, and make sure you have at least four safety pins. If possible, grab eight safety pins. (If you do enough races, you probably have at least eight pins lying in your car!)

Why eight pins, when there are just four holes in the number plate?

I’ll tell you why. It’s a technique called “flat pinning” and it’s a generally agreed upon way to pin your number down so it’s flat, secure, and aerodynamic.

With flat pinning, you skip the pre-punched holes on the number and go straight through the paper/fabric of the number plate. This helps keep the number completely flat against your jersey so it doesn’t flap in the wind! (Even if a loose number plate isn’t a huge aerodynamics problem, the sound of it flapping around is rather annoying!)

If you choose to use four pins, you will pin through the four corners of the number. If you choose to use eight pins, you’ll pin through the four corners plus each of the four sides. It depends on how strict you are about a super aerodynamic number plate!

The actual technique requires you to stick the pin down through the number, through your jersey, back into and up through your jersey, and through the number again before closing the pin.

Once you practice it one time you’ll get it.

The next topic for number plates is crinkling and rolling your number plate.

Typically, the number plate is going to be made of stiff, heavy paper. Even with flat pinning, it can be hard to get it perfectly flat against the curve of your body.

So what riders will do is crinkle the number up into a ball (then unroll it) before pinning it to their jersey. This loosens up the paper and helps it conform to your body.

If crinkling it into a ball seems too much, you can also roll it up (like putting a poster into a cardboard tube) in a couple directions so it’s no so flat. This will do less damage to the number.

Note: Crinkling is a good technique for the fabric numbers, while rolling works better for paper/cardboard numbers.

The controversy over crinkling your number actually comes from the USCF rules. Technically, any modification to your number plate (which includes crinkling) violates USCF rules.

The rule comes from the possibility of race officials not being able to get a good view of your number, like if the crinkles reflect the sun some way where the finish line camera doesn’t pick up your number.

I’ve never actually seen this enforced, but it’s risky. Especially if you do something to get on the official’s bad side. (Who knows, maybe one of the officials was the kid you bullied in middle school? He might get revenge by disqualifying you for a manipulated number plate!)

Now, if it’s just a local race, no one will care. You’ll probably have a timing chip anyway, and no finish line camera.

The only thing to worry about is not pinning down the little tear-off tab on the bottom! (Same as the number plates used in a 5k.)

As for number placement in a road bike race, it will most likely lie parallel to your back, on the left side (people to your left can read the number, people behind you will have to tilt their heads sideways.)

In a mountain bike race, it’s more likely you’ll have a number plate on your handlebar. However, you could also have a number on your left or right hip.

For more info on race number placement (it varies with each race, so the more info you have, the better,) check out this link:

• Race numbers: Pinning and Placement – Help with number placement and pinning for road bike racers.

You need to pick up your number plate and make sure it is positioned properly, or you might run into timing issues and not get the right time or listed as a finisher! (Some races are strict enough you could get disqualified for not placing your number plate perfectly!)

So here is what to do:

Step 1: Get your number plate and safety pins.

The first thing to do is get your number plate and four safety pins at the registration tent.

This is a great time to ask them where exactly to put your number. It will most likely get centered on your stomach or on your right hip. It might also go on your left hip – it just depends on the finish chute, where there will be a volunteer on one side to tear off the tab and order them for results.

Also, it’s important that officials can see your number to know you’re actually in the race. (In some big races, if you don’t have a number plate, you’ll be escorted off the course by security.)

Step 2: Line up your number plate.

This is easiest to do with a friend lending a hand, or you could do it while your shorts or shirt are lying on a chair. Or do it while wearing your outfit. (That’s not hard when the number is going on your stomach or hip, but if it was going on your back, it would be quite rough!)

Step 3: Pin it down.

With the number in place, it’s time to pin it down. If you’re short on time, you could just stick the pins through the holes on the plate, but I prefer to use a technique called “flat pinning.”

Flat pinning is where you pin through the number plate itself (rather than using the pre-punched holes.) This holds the number down closer to your shirt so it doesn’t flap in the wind.

Near each corner, place the pin through the number plate, down through your shirt, back up through your shirt, and back through the number plate. Then close the pin.

When done properly, the number will lay flat against your shirt.

The critical step here is DO NOT pin down the tear-off tab. That’s the bottom section of the number plate that has your information, right below the perforated line. They need to tear that off at the finish line, and they can’t tear it off if it is pinned to your shirt.

Now, get to the start line!