Click here for a larger view.

I have been racing against Aaron Snyder since my first ‘real’ mountain bike race back in 2003 when we were both juniors. Since then, I have progressed steadily, while Aaron progressed astronomically and is now racing World Cup events!

I got a chance to catch up with him earlier this year and put together a little bike check so you can see what Aaron is riding these days as a professional mountain bike racer.

Pro Bike Check: Aaron Snyder’s Scott Spark RC

Aaron Snyder, racing for Scott Bicycles, has a great full-suspension mountain bike at his disposal. Here are the details:

Frame: Scott Spark RC w/ integrated seatmast (L)

Fork: Fox 32RLC

Shock: Scott Nude w/ remote lockout

Wheels: DT Swiss 240 hubs laced to Stan’s Olympic ZTR rims

Tires (as pictured): Maxxis Monorail (rear) and Maxxis Crossmark (front)

Crank: Shimano XTR w/ only two rings, 34/44

BB: Chris King MTB

Front Derailleur: Shimano Dura-Ace braze on with K-Edge Chain Watcher

Rear Derailleur: Shimano XTR

Shifters: Shimano XTR

Brakes: Shimano XTR, 160mm Front, 140mm Rear. Hope Floating rotors.

Chain: SRAM PC991 Hollowpin

Cassette: Shimano XT 11-34

Pedals: Crankbrothers Candy 4Ti

Handlebar: FSA Carbon Flat Bar

Stem: Ritchey 4-Axis, 110mm

Grips: Ergon GX2 Mag

Saddle: Selle Italia SLR

Detailed Pictures of Aaron’s Bike

Let’s look at some pictures of all these components…

The rear shock on the Scott Spark frame.

Here is the handlebar-mounted lockout for the rear shock.

The Scott Spark has an integrated seatmast.

Aaron perches upon this rock solid Selle Italia saddle.

Aaron also runs a PowerTap rear hub when he needs to collect power data.

Check out the sweet gold Chris King BB, mated to the XTR cranks.

Some well-worn Ergon grips.

The very cool K-Edge chain watcher.

I must say, that’s a great mod for any bike where you can install a braze-on style front derailleur.

Another look at the K-Edge.

 

Related links:

Aaron’s blog

Scott Bikes (Scott Spark RC page)

If you’re planning to buy your first mountain bike, you are probably wondering what size to get. The “what size bike for me?” question comes up over and over again, so here is the answer…

What is the ideal mountain bike size for me? I’m 6′3″

What size mountain bike for a female, 5′2″ 120 lbs? I’m looking to get into mountain biking, and I was wondering what size bike frame and what size wheels I need, because of my short height.

Those are just two examples of the questions I hear. It’s usually the same question, but with a different height and weight!

Let’s start by looking at what sizes are out there…

Mountain Bike Frame and Wheel Sizes

In general, mountain bikes are available with frame sizes of Small, Medium, Large, and X-Large. The frame measurement is the seat tube length. A Small frame will usually be a 15″, Medium 17″, Large 19″, and X-Large 21″.

But just as important is a seldom mentioned measurement – top tube (TT) length. The length of the top tube partially determines how far you have to reach to the handlebars while seated. This is actually more important to getting a correctly sized, comfortable bike than any other measurement.

To make things even more complicated, frames vary between manufacturers. Some companies measure differently, and most will have different geometry, leading to very different feelings from the same size bicycle!

For example, I love the feeling of Giant frames in their 18″ size. But on a 19″ Specialized, I almost feel cramped. Crazier still, I have a 21″ Trek frame that I got when I was in middle school (I was maybe 5′5″ tall then.) So your size also depends on which brand you choose!

Some manufacturers such as Trek and Gary Fisher and doing bicycles with geometry specifically for women, so that is an option for some smaller women. If you are around 5′ tall, you may prefer a women-specific design.

The most popular wheel size is 26″. Just about every mountain bike you look at will have 26″ wheels, so there isn’t much to worry about with wheel size.

Gaining in popularity is the 29″ wheel size. A few years ago you rarely saw a 29″ wheel bike, but today, there are actually quite a few 29″ bikes out there. While there is a hot debate about which size wheel is better for mountain biking, I’d say stick with 26″ wheels unless you already know the advantages and disadvantages of 29″ wheels (in which case you probably understand frame sizes as well.)

The only other thing to know is to avoid 24″ wheels in almost all cases. Those are typically found on small mountain bikes at department stores, and replacement parts (tires, tubes, etc.) are hard to find. Only look at bikes with 24″ wheels if you are particularly short and can’t get comfortable on a small 26″ wheel bike.

The Size For You

In general, if you’re short, you’ll get a size small. If you’re tall, you’ll get a larger size. But you also have to consider inseam length rather than just your height. And then your arm length comes into play as well.

All I can really tell you without fitting you on a bike is, “if you are 6′3″, start by looking at the XL size” and, “if you are 5′2″, take a look at bikes in the XS and S sizes.”

It’s impossible to determine your exact size over the internet! Bicycle geometry (not to mention the human body) is too complex and unique to analyze so easily.

Bottom line: There is no “this is the size for you” answer to this question. Anyone that gives you a specific size to get, without discussing specifics about the exact frame in question and seeing your body, is just guessing (and most likely wrong.)

How to Actually Get the Right Size Bike

If you’re serious about getting a proper-fitting mountain bike, you owe it to yourself to visit a bicycle shop. Not a department store, not a sporting goods store, and not an online retailer.

You want to actually see the bikes in person and take them for test rides. What’s cool is that you don’t need to walk into a shop and know exactly what size to get. That’s the point of bike shops – they help you pick the right size bike!

But before you go shopping, here are some tips on bike fit:

It should be comfortable. Comfort is subjective, so it’s up to you to pick out which bicycle seems most comfortable. You should be able to sit comfortably on the bike and reach the handlebars without being too stretched out. Likewise, you might not want to be too upright.

Get some standover clearance. Since mountain biking can be dangerous and there’s always a possibility of crashing, you want to have some clearance. Look for about 2-4″ of clearance between your crotch and the bicycle’s top tube.

Get the smallest bike that still fits. You want the smallest frame you can get that still provides the correct riding position. (To get the correct position, you need to test ride and fit the bike in a bike shop.)

The smaller frame is easier to handle and provides more standover clearance, plus it’s a little lighter and stiffer.

Be wary of certain deals. Some unscrupulous bike shop employees will attempt to sell you a bike that’s a size too big or small in order to clear out old inventory. Even if they offer you a good deal, I don’t suggest getting a bike that doesn’t fit perfectly!

Test ride. Finally, test ride the bikes. It’s about what you like, and a test ride is the best way to figure that out.

Then and only then should you decide on the right size bike!

Let’s look at cadence when it comes to mountain biking…

Speaking of cadence, which one is efficient in mt biking – maintaining 90 rpm, or high torque and less rpm?

Thanks,
Mountain Matt

Hi Matt,

The short answer is, “it depends.”

As discussed in my proper cadence article, the proper cadence differs between riders, even when road biking. However, it is generally accepted that maintaining a steady cadence of 90rpm is most efficient on the road.

At the other end of the spectrum (mountain biking,) there are many situations that call for different cadences. When mountain biking, you can disregard virtually everything I said about proper cadence for road biking!

In general, a slower cadence in a higher gear will offer more stability when negotiated rough, technical terrain. Having that extra resistance will make it much easier to go up, over, and/or around obstacles without losing momentum.

Let’s say you’re on very rutted terrain. You want a real big gear and slow cadence to put your weight on your feet, easing the pain on your butt. (The harder of a gear you’re pushing, the less your butt rests on the saddle.)

For technical hill climbs, you definitely want more torque and a lower cadence. This allows you to push yourself over obstacles and begin pedaling again, without spinning out.

If you’re cruising down dirt roads, go ahead and spin 90 rpm if you want to relax. But even then, I don’t always spin that fast. It’s partly due to the longer crank arms on my mountain bike, but partly because the high cadence just doesn’t feel right on the rough stuff. (Even on a regular dirt road, I like that torque.)

However, one thing I’ve heard from some of the local pros that also ride singlespeeds, is that they have successfully used a “singlespeed-esque strategy” while racing on geared bikes. (If you’ve never been on a singlespeed, it typically works like this: you stand and grind on the hills, then spin real easy on the flats.)

So using this strategy on a geared bike means you get in a fairly big gear and push really hard on the climbs. Then when you’re on the flats, you spin relatively easily to recover. The goal is to save your energy for the tough stuff, while conserving energy where extra effort doesn’t yield that much difference in speed (i.e. going hard on a hill can really put a gap on your competition, while spinning moderately on the flats is almost as fast as pushing really hard on the flats.)

What it boils down is that, in most cases, you’ll have a better experience if you push a bigger gear on your mountain bike instead of spinning at 90rpm.

Hydration packs are extremely useful, especially for mountain bikers. You can drink conveniently without taking your hands off the bars, as well as carry a set of tools and accessories.

But once the ride is over, things get tougher. You have to remove the bladder and clean it thoroughly, and don’t forget the bite valve – that thing is tough to clean! (That’s what makes me opt for water bottles when they’re a feasible option.)

The good news is, once you know the drill, keeping your CamelBak’s bladder (or reservoir) clean and fresh isn’t all that difficult.

Part 1: How to Clean Your Hydration Pack

We’ll assume you have a grungy bladder at the moment, so let’s start by cleaning it!

Here are five different ways to clean it:

1. Hot water + baking soda

Fill the bladder with hot water and baking soda. Shake it up and let it sit overnight.

2. Camelbak cleaning kit

You could go all out and get Camelbak’s brush kit and cleaning tablets. It’s nice because everything comes in one package, but it isn’t the cheapest option.

3. Cold water + bleach

Try filling the bladder with cold water and 1 tsp bleach. Let that sit overnight. Just make sure you rinse thoroughly! (If I use bleach, I also clean it with the hot water + baking soda afterward to get rid of the chlorine taste.)

I don’t really like to use harsh substances like bleach, but sometimes you might have to.

4. Denture cleaning tablets

A cheaper alternative to Camelbak tablets is a box of denture cleaning tablets. (Just make sure they are flavorless, unless you want to drink mint-flavored water.)

5. Pipe cleaners and Q-tips

If your main problem is cleaning the tube, try some pipe cleaners! Q-tips also work inside the bite valve.

Part 2: Tips to Keep Your Hydration Pack Clean and Fresh

Now that the reservoir is clean, keep it that way! Here are five more tips that will keep things clean:

1. Only carry water

Without sugary sports drinks, it’s much less likely that mold will grow in the reservoir. I prefer to carry plain water or Nuun in my pack while carrying drinks like Accelerade and Perpetuem in bottles.

2. The freezer

Keep the reservoir in the freezer when not in use. The freezer provides an environment cold enough that mold can’t grow.

3. Concentrate on the bite valve

When cleaning, make sure you get the bleach or soapy water down through the hose and bite valve.

4. Air dry

Hang the reservoir to air dry after each cleaning to be sure it is totally dry.

5. Buy new

If you do carry sports drinks and get mold, it might be too late. The reservoir isn’t the worst problem – the tube and valves are. Ditch the bite valve, because the mold in there is nearly impossible to remove, no matter what detergents and brushes, toothpicks, Q-tips, etc. you try.

Just clean everything, get a new bite valve for $5, and regularly wash it all and store it in the freezer.

Did you just buy your first mountain bike so you can get into XC racing?

Chances are you bought something like the Trek 6700, Giant XTC 1, Cannondale F4, or Specialized Rockhopper Expert. These are roughly $1100-1300 bikes, which is not cheap, but you still might want to upgrade some parts and add accessories to decrease the weight and improve the performance.

Here is what I would do to make your bike race-ready without spending too much money:

Day of Purchase

The first upgrade you need to make is going to clipless pedals. You should do this immediately, because it’s a huge performance upgrade!

Most bikes in this price range either have flat pedals, no pedals at all, or maybe the basic Shimano SPD pedals. (If they do come with a pedal like the Shimano M520, you can use that to start, but be prepared to upgrade eventually, as these pedals don’t always work well.)

If the bike comes without clipless pedals, I would recommend looking at nicer pedals from Shimano, Time, and Crank Brothers. Popular models are the Shimano M770, Time ATAC XS Carbon, Crank Bros Eggbeater SL, and Crank Bros Candy SL.

You will also need special shoes to go with the clipless pedals. Take a look at models from Shimano, Sidi, Northwave, Specialized, Bontrager, Diadora, and Pearl Izumi. (Consider some more cycling clothing while you’re at it.)

Next, look at the saddle. There’s a chance you’ll like the saddle that comes on the bike. If so, great.

You won’t be doing too many long rides where you sit the whole time (unlike on a road bike,) so the saddle won’t be as big of a deal. But if you hate the saddle, switch it! I’m a big fan of Fizik and WTB saddles for mountain bike use.

After A Few Rides

After a few rides, consider getting some new rubber. AKA, grips and tires.

If the stock grips are comfy, go ahead and stick with them. But if they suck (as a lot of grips do,) upgrade them. I think the Oury grips and ESI grips are good, but also try out the Ergon grips if you have had any hand discomfort with regular grips.

Next, tires. Even if you got decent tires on your bike, mountain bike racing calls for more than one pair of tires. That’s because you need at least two sets of tires – one for dry conditions and one for wet, muddy conditions.

Some tires I like include the IRC Serac XC, Maxxis Crossmark, Maxxis Monorail, Hutchinson Python, and Kenda Nevegal. But there are many tires out there, and you need the ones that match your typical riding conditions. (Someone in the Arizona desert needs different tires than someone riding technical East Coast singletrack.)

Ask the local bike shop or your fellow racers for tire recommendations for your area.

New Wheels, Go Tubeless

As you start thinking about new tires, also think about going tubeless. Switching to tubeless tires is a huge performance upgrade! (First priority for performance is clipless pedals and shoes, but a close second is tubeless tires.)

There are two ways to accomplish this – buy UST wheels, or use a Stan’s NoTubes conversion kit.

On a budget:

If you’re on a budget, go for the Stans NoTubes conversion, which will convert your existing wheels and tires to tubeless for just about $55.

Also, if your standard wheels are good quality and you don’t want to spend $650 on new ones, the Stan’s conversion kit is for you.

With a little work, you’ll turn your regular wheels into a sweet set of tubeless wheels! It is so worth it! (It takes some work though, so don’t expect it to be easy.)

If you can afford new wheels:

If you have the money, spring for some new wheels. These are typically called UST tubeless wheels, and two popular options are Mavic Crossmax SL and Stan’s Olympic Disc wheels.

Both wheelsets are fairly expensive (around $650-900,) but they are lightweight and don’t require fussing around to get them working without tubes.

Important Components to Upgrade

Here are some good ideas if you still have more money than you know what to do with:

Brakes

Your brakes get a lot of use when mountain biking! These days, bikes in this price range come equipped with decent hydraulic disc brakes. These should work great for years to come, so don’t be in a hurry to upgrade.

On the other hand, if you have V-brakes, I’d swap those out ASAP. Disc brakes work so much better, especially in wet conditions, so it’s worth the investment.

But let’s say you have some basic hydraulic discs like the Avid Juicy 3 or Shimano Deore. They’re alright, but if you want better performance (nicer levers, better modulation, more power, etc.), you can upgrade your brakes because they are so important.

A popular option is the Avid Juicy Ultimate, but there are also nice brakes from Shimano XTR, Hayes, Hope, and Magura.

Suspension fork

Another expensive upgrade, a nice fork could cost more than your wheels. (I feel wheels are much more important, and brakes a little more important than this upgrade, but a good fork is nice to have.)

The real key is to have a fork with a lockout. These days, virtually every fork is going to have a lockout, so your current fork is probably fine.

But you can save some serious weight and get a better feel with a nicer fork. The RockShox SID and Fox F100 forks are popular options.

The Drivetrain

A good drivetrain is essential to performance, but a basic drivetrain consisting of Shimano Deore and/or SLX parts (or SRAM X.7 or X.9 components) should deliver solid performance. (If your drivetrain isn’t performing well, consider adjusting it properly or working on your shifting technique.)

Considering the likelihood of damaging derailleurs while riding, I would just wait and replace them when necessary. (If you must upgrade, I’d stick with Shimano XT, as XTR is super expensive.)

As for the rest of the drivetrain, just replace it as necessary. When they need replacement, a good chain and cassette will improve performance and save weight. Your bike probably came with a cheap, heavy cassette. (That’s the #1 priority for upgrading if you upgrade anything in the drivetrain.)

Just remember that you’ll go through at least a couple chains each year, and the cassette will need changed every so often.

Other Bicycle Components

If you’ve made it this far, your bike is probably very nice. There’s not much left to upgrade, but here are a couple ideas:

To save weight, consider a carbon seatpost. You could also choose a carbon handlebar to save more weight and possibly increase your comfort.

But the seatpost, stem, and handlebar are probably the last parts I’d upgrade.

Final Thoughts on Upgrading Components

Upgrading components can be fun and exciting, but buying purely on emotion will burn through your money real fast. You should first upgrade the parts that will give you the most bang for your buck, and then move on to the other parts. And don’t forget that many parts will wear out and need replaced, so you want to have some money saved for that!

In any case, it’s your bike, so have fun with it!