Every time I talk about using fixed gear track bikes for training purposes (and why it’s pointless,) I am met with more and more arguments why you should use a fixed gear for training. Which means I have more and more myths to dispel!

But before I get deep into specifics, let me mention a very important training principle for all cyclists. That would be specificity. The gist of this principle is that your training conditions need to mirror your racing conditions (as closely as possible.)

For example, if you are a mountain bike racer, it would be good to spend lots of time on your mountain bike, and do lots of hill intervals. If you’re a time trial specialist, you should be spending time in the tucked position on your TT bike, at a steady race pace. And if you race on the track, you should do the majority of your training on a fixed gear, on the track.

(If you don’t believe me about specificity, just ask Joe Friel, author of The Cyclist’s Training Bible.)

But for one reason or another, many advocate using a fixed gear for road training.

I already debunked the myth about fixed gear bikes improving pedal stroke, but everyone still thinks they are better for cadence and power development. Why? Because on the downhills, you have to pedal at a fast cadence. And on the climbs, you have to use lots of power to turn the gear.

So I will go ahead and play along with this argument. I do agree to the facts – that you usually have to power up hills at a low cadence and spin down hills at a high cadence.

But here’s the thing. With the fixed gear, you need a fairly steep hill to challenge yourself into using more power. Same with the downhill – it has to be a real downhill that’s steep enough to get you spinning extra fast.

Well guess what – common sense says that if you’re on a geared bike, you can always get into a gear like that, no matter how flat or steep the terrain. You just have to shift differently than usual – into a bigger gear for climbs, and a smaller gear for descents.

So I can go ride a regular road bike and just shift into a bigger gear than I’d normally use for the hill in question. And I can keep the gear fairly low for the downhill, requiring me to spin the pedals at 140rpm.

Why buy a fixed gear when you can train like that on a geared bike? I don’t know.

The only thing left is that fixed gear forces you to pedal while geared bikes let you coast. But that is simply a replacement for motivation. If you’re motivated to train, you don’t need a fixed gear to force yourself to pedal.

If you don’t have the motivation to pedal your bicycle, then you need to rethink your racing goals. You have bigger problems than the type of bike you’re riding!

Now that that’s over, let’s go back to specificity. Let’s say you’re a road racer. You need to be highly skilled at riding your road bike at whatever cadence and pace the race course and other racers dictate. Chances are, the front racers won’t be doing 40rpm up the climbs and 140rpm on the descents. They also won’t be pedaling through the sharp bends on the downhills. So why would you purposefully do something completely different in training?

I really don’t care if you want to have some fun riding a singlespeed to reduce boredom. Sure, by all means, ride one. Or if you want to ride a fixed gear for your road training, I don’t mind. But if you think you are somehow getting better training than if you rode the geared bike you race on, I urge you to re-evaluate what you are doing.

Did you just pick up some rollers for the coming indoor riding season? Great choice! (I am a big fan of rollers over stationary trainers.)

Now you just need to set them up…

The good news is, rollers are very easy to set up. Even better, you only have to set them up once – there is no need to adjust them each time you ride! (If you use a stationary trainer, it requires adjustment each time you put your bike on it.)

Tools needed:

• Adjustable wrench
• Plumb bob (optional)

Now let’s get started…

Step 1: Set the rollers on the floor.

Place the rollers on a flat surface. Unfold them if that is an option.

If unfolding them, make sure the cable is resting in the grooves on the sides of the roller drums. This cable is vital because it connects the drums so they all rotate together!

Step 2a: See if your bike fits.

This is the only real step in roller setup. You need to adjust the position of the front drum to match your bicycle’s wheelbase.

To do this, hold your bicycle on the rollers. Be sure to place the rear wheel over the two nonadjustable drums. The front wheel should rest on the single front drum.

Now look at the bicycle’s front hub and the rollers’ front drum. What you want to do is move the drum forward or backward so that the front hub is slightly behind the drum.

What has worked perfectly for me is dropping a plumb bob from the quick release skewer. I like it so I can drop a plumb bob from the skewer (which is the center of the front hub) and have it hit the back side of the drum. This means the center of the front hub is behind the center of the drum.

Note: If you do not have a plumb bob, you can just eyeball it.

Why not center the wheel over the drum? If the front hub is directly above or slightly in front of the drum, it’s more likely you’ll ride off the front of the rollers!

Step 2b: Move the front roller.

Now, if the drum does need moved, grab the adjustable wrench.

To move the drum, just loosen the end bolts with an adjustable wrench, move the drum into a different set of holes, and re-tighten the bolts.

When finished, make sure everything is tight, and take a test ride!

While mountain bikers face the obvious obstacles (rocks, logs, mud pits, etc.) out on the trail, there are plenty of dangers out there on the pavement, too.

Here’s how to stay upright no matter what the road throws at you:

Roadkill

In most cases, you will spot the roadkill while it’s still far up the road, giving you time to change your line and safely ride around it. (You are always alert for potential road hazards, right??)

All you have to do is pick a line to the left or right of the roadkill and glide by without trouble. Just don’t look at the roadkill. Remember, always look where you want to go – don’t look at the obstacle you’re trying to avoid! (You might want to plug your nose, too.)

Can’t change lines? If you didn’t spot the roadkill in time, or you’re surrounded by traffic, you will have to hop over the roadkill!

To do this, stand up and crouch down like a spring. When you get to the roadkill, spring your body upwards and slightly pull the bike up into the air if you can. It is best to get both wheels over, but at least get your front wheel over. (If your back wheel hits, it may get some blood and guts on it, but if your front wheel hits, you could lose control and be roadkill yourself!)

Pot hole

Again, this is something you want to spot well in advance and ride around it (follow the same guidelines as avoiding roadkill.)

But if you can’t get around the pot hole, there are two ways to hit it…

The fast way:

Unweight your wheels, stand up, glide over it. Use legs and arms as shock absorbers when you land.

One, keep your speed high, and unweight your wheels, which allows you to stay above the pothole and land safely on the other side. Unweight and go straight up and speed carries you forward to the other side. Could do this in the drops or on bar tops.

The slow way:

Two, slow down quite a bit, but maintain enough speed to safely roll through. Lean back, unweighting front wheel, it will glide over. Then lean forward to take weight off the rear wheel. Use legs and arms as shock absorbers. Best done with hands on bar tops.

Either way, you’ll be standing up in the attack position.

Railroad Tracks

Railroad tracks pose a slightly different threat than typical obstacles since you can’t ride around them. You either ride over them or jump over them! (Both options can be dangerous, but very doable if you know how.)

Glide over:

Stay loose and glide over. Hit perpendicular. If the tracks are angled, then you need to angle yourself to hit them at 90 degrees. Watch for traffic, because this requires you to use the whole lane.

If they’re wet, be extra careful.

Hop over:

At high speeds, you can unweight over these just like you’d unweight over a huge pothole. For experienced riders only, because it’s a long ways. Otherwise roll over them lightly like you would roll over a pot hole.

Broken Glass

Rarely do I go for a ride and not encounter glass of some sort. Whether there is window glass scattered everywhere from a car crash or broken beer bottles lining the shoulder, glass is a common sight on the road.

As with roadkill, try your best to pick a line that takes you past the glass, rather than through it.

But if you have to ride through the glass, you can decrease your risk of a puncture. First off, try to ride through as little glass as possible. Second, glide through lightly with your pedals level, weight evenly distributed.

Once you’re through, (with gloves on) run your palm along the tire to dislodge any glass shards before they burrow their way down to the tube. It’s easier to do this if you are stopped, but experienced riders can do this while still riding. Just don’t let the tire pull your hand in between it and the frame or fork!

Metal Drainage Grates

When crossing a metal drainage grate, there are two problems you’ll encounter.

First, metal is slippery. If it’s wet, it’s extra slippery!

If possible (traffic permitting,) simply ride around the grate. If you have to ride over the grate, cross it in a straight line. If you turn your wheels at all, you could lose traction and go down.

The second problem is the size and orientation of the openings. Some grates have openings that run parallel with the road, meaning that your narrow tires could actually slip down into the grate, sending you over the handlebars!

So you either ride around the grate or cross it by riding perpendicular to the openings. (Or, if you’re highly skilled, you could ride across the narrow metal part like it’s a balance beam.)

Wet Leaves

Much like metal and painted surfaces, wet leaves are extremely slippery!

To ride over them safely, ride in a straight line in the attack position. Stay loose and alert, because wet leaves could also be hiding pot holes or rocks that you won’t see till it’s too late (like, after they knocked you down.)

Don’t try to turn, and don’t accelerate a lot. If you turn you might slide, and if you accelerate, your back wheel will probably spin and you could lose control.

Final Tips

Want to be ready for anything the road throws at you? Try riding MTB and BMX in your spare time. Then you’ll have such good bike control that nothing can stop you!

And of course, practice crashing with proper technique! (Eventually, the practice will pay off!)

As we approach that time of year when the cold, wet weather typically sets in, it is time to look into indoor riding options. You can choose between rollers and trainers, but the stationary trainer is the standard tool of the trade for most riders looking to train indoors.

Here are five indoor trainers including popular models that have been getting rave reviews for years as well as a couple new, high-tech offerings:

1. CycleOps Jet Fluid Pro

CycleOps has always had a nice flagship trainer option. Cyclists have been buying this for years, and many shops even use a CycleOps Fluid 2 unit for bike fits. This Jet Fluid Pro is simply the latest upgrade to CycleOps’ stable of fluid trainers.

The JetFluid Pro uses PowerTuned technology for a smooth fluid feel, which makes for realistic feeling accelerations when riding. In layman’s terms, this trainer makes it feel like you’re actually out on the open road. It is also “the quietest Fluid trainer ever made.”

Website: www.Saris.com

2. 1UpUSA

One trainer that’s very popular around the online cycling communities, yet I rarely see in person, is the 1Up USA trainer. How popular? It has been voted “Best Trainer” seven years in a row by MountainBikeReview.com and RoadBikeReview.com!

You’ll have to check the site to read all the details that set this trainer apart from the rest, but the number one reason is the Centrifugal Pressure Resistance, which I can’t explain other than the fact it is supposed to provide a more realistic ride than any fluid or magnetic trainer!

For just $299 shipped, the 1UpUSA trainer is definitely worth a look.

Website: www.1upusa.com

3. Kurt Kinetic Road Machine

The other extremely popular fluid trainer is the Road Machine from Kurt. This is a fluid trainer with smooth resistance and good road feel.

Website: www.kurtkinetic.com

4. Blackburn Tech Fluid Trainer

Blackburn has come out with an updated fluid trainer to expand your options. It is supposed to be as good as the others, but it’s $100 or so less, so it’s definitely worth considering. It also comes with a lifetime warranty.

Website: www.blackburn.com

5. Tacx Fortius

This is a serious trainer, with a serious price – well over $1000. Not only is it a solid trainer, it incorporates Virtual Reality and turns your slog on the trainer into a lifelike racing experience!

If you plan to log a lot of miles indoors and you have lots of extra cash, definitely take a look at the Virtual Reality trainers from Tacx.

Website: www.tacxvr.com

A dropped chain poses serious problems for all cyclists. Not only is it annoying, dropping a chain can damage your frame, especially if it is full carbon. And if it happens during a race, congratulations, you just lost!

The worst part is, even if you practice shifting for years and get really good at the nuances of your bike, and you adjust the front derailleur perfectly, it still happens!

So what do you do?

You need to get yourself a chain catcher!

A “chain catcher” (or “chain watcher” as some say) will prevent the chain from dropping off the small ring and onto the frame. If the chain is about to slide off the small ring, it hits the chain catcher, which pushes the chain back onto the ring. This saves time, keeps your hands clean, lessens frame damage, and could very well salvage your chances of winning a race!

The chain catcher is actually a simple device. It is nothing more than a small piece of plastic or metal that clamps to your seat tube or front derailleur and rests beside the small chainring.

They are cheap, too, so you have no excuse not to use one!

In my research, I have found six options for chain catchers. Here they are…

Third Eye Chain Watcher

This is a small piece of nylon with a built-in metal clamp. It clamps to the seat tube, and the nylon piece keeps the chain on the ring. It should fit seat tubes of 1 1/8″ to 1 3/8″, even if they’re oval.

Link: www.3rd-eye.com

Deda Elementi Dog Fang

This looks similar to the Third Eye Chain Watcher, in that it is a small piece of nylon. It fits 28.6 mm (1 1/8″), 31.7 mm (1 1/4″) and 31.8 mm (1 3/8″) round seat tubes.

Link: www.dedaelementi.com

N-Gear Jump Stop

This is a stainless steel plate with a plastic clamp. It clamps to your seat tube and the plate is there to act as a chain guide. It fits round seat tubes with a standard outside diameter of 1″ (needs shim), 1-1/8″, 1-1/4″, or 1-3/8″.

Link: www.gvtc.com

JTek DropStop

The DropStop is slightly different in that it mounts on the bottom bracket rather than the seat tube. This solves the problem of seat tube size, although it requires more time for installation.

Link: www.jtekengineering.com

K-Edge

The K-Edge is the fanciest chain catcher out there. If you want a good one, this is the one to get. But you do have to shell out $45 or more for this luxury!

Link: www.acecosportgroup.com

There is also a good story at VeloNews featuring the K-Edge.

Or… Make your own!

If you want a top-quality chain catcher but don’t want to spend a whole lot, you can make your own. It’s possible to make your own chain catcher that looks and works nearly as well as the K-Edge, while costing less than $10.

All you really do is take a piece of metal and bend it just so, then attach it to your bike via the screw on your front derailleur braze-on.

For instructions and diagrams, check out the RoadBikeRider.com ebook “How to Make a Chain Catcher (And Never Worry About a Suicide Shift Again)” by John Marsh. (Buy here; see my review of the book here.) It’s under $4 for the book, and the materials cost under $2. That’s a great value!

(Or check this thread at RoadBikeReview for some interesting ideas for homemade chain catchers.)

Yes, even the pros use chain catchers!

If you look at the pros’ bikes, you’ll see many of them have custom-made chain catchers!

Alessandro Ballan’s Wilier: click here for picture.

Paolo Bettini’s Specialized: click here for story, here for picture.

There is also a story here and another picture.

Bradley Wiggins’ Felt (equipped with a K-Edge): click here for story.

Don’t wait until you scratch your carbon frame, get a chain catcher soon!