You may be wondering if it’s worth it to get a triathlon shoe or if your regular road bike shoes will work for the occasional triathlon…

I have been biking and doing triathlons for about 6 years now and i am just getting competitive. I have always just used some sidi shoe that a friend gave me but they are way past their time of replacement and i finally have the money to get a new pair of shoes!

Is there a difference in a “Road” shoe and a “triathlon” shoe? if so is it so much of a difference that i would need to get both?

I am racing competitively and im not slow by any means! I have won my last 5 or 6 road races on the bike and plan to do the upcoming half ironman in new orleans. I just need to know if i need to buy two different pairs of shoes for biking or is there one that can be used for both and does not sacrifice anything.

Keep in mind i need to be able to slip out of the shoe itself in a triathlon while still riding the bike (relatively fast and easy) so i think Velcro is the way to go.

Thanks,
Triathlon Tim

Hi Tim,

The main purpose of a triathlon shoe is to let you slip in and out quickly, even with wet feet.

Typically a triathlon shoe will use a single Velcro strap, and it will have a wide foot opening (sometimes referred to as “tongueless” design.) These features make it easy to get the shoe on and off quickly. Also, there is usually a nice seamless liner that makes the shoes comfortable to wear without socks (similar to how triathlon-oriented running shoes are made.)

With a road bike shoe, you’ll probably have two or three Velcro straps and/or a buckle closure. This is great for adjusting the shoes for the perfect fit, but it’s not a time saver. Cheaper shoes might even have laces, which take a long time to tie and untie.

What it really comes down to is that road shoes are designed for comfort and performance, while tri shoes are designed for quick transitions and performance (and for sockless comfort.)

A tri shoe will look like this.

In the end, you could get by with one or the other. With the tri shoe, the fit might not be perfectly dialed in, but it should be fine.

With the road shoe, it would probably be more comfortable and stable. It would be a bit slower for the transitions, but working with two Velcro straps instead of one doesn’t add that much extra transition time.

Where the road shoe’s secure fit would really shine is in the sprinting and attacking that takes place in most road races. (Whereas you’re keeping a steady pace, usually seated, during a tri.)

Sure, I’d prefer to have both shoes, but you don’t need to start out with both. If you’re racing Cat 1/2 or Pro on the road, you definitely want dedicated road shoes.

High up in triathlons? Get a tri-specific shoe.

If I was going with just one shoe, I’d get a good road shoe with two Velcro straps.

Today we are on the topic of mixing and matching parts again…

I’m looking at upgrading several components of my Trek 1.5 I recently purchased a Ultegra rear deraileur to replace the Tiagra unit there now. I’d like to upgrade the shifters from the Sora units there now to either 105 or Ultegra units. My main question is whether it’s ok to mix and match components from the different families? I’m thinking about going with 105 components due to their reliability and relatively low cost. Thanks ahead of time for your answers.

-Mixing Mike

Hi Mike,

You should have no problem mixing and matching these components. As long as everything is either Shimano 9speed or Shimano 10speed, you’re fine. Until recently, it was hard to find a bike that had all the parts from one group, like Shimano 105. Typically you would see a bike with an Ultegra rear derailleur, maybe 105 cranks or shifters, and then Tiagra parts everywhere else.

(Then it would be called an “Ultegra bike” to make it sound better, but that’s another story…)

The one thing you do not want to do is mix and match Shimano, SRAM, and Campagnolo together. I consider these manufacturers separate families. You could call Sora, 105, Ultegra, etc. cousins, as they’re all part of the Shimano family and they play well together.

The only exception I’ve seen is with a few of the top end components new for 2009. For example, the Shimano Dura Ace 7900 shifters and derailleurs won’t mate to earlier versions.

But like I said, the general rule is that all levels of Shimano will work together. A bike with an Ultegra rear derailleur and everything else 105 would make for a great riding bike. All you’re really giving up to the more expensive components is weight (and at the same time, you’re probably gaining durability.)

Let’s look at what you can do if you have the problem where your feet hit your front tire when you turn…

I have a KHS Flite 100 And when I turn my feet hit the front tire. This is happening with my new soma cages and the older Mini-Clips I had. The clips are as far away from the bike as they can be.
Do I need shorter crank arms or new pedals?

I’m 6′0″ and it’s a 57. The guy said it was a perfect fit… I really don’t want to but a new bike, it doesn’t happen on my brothers swobo sanchez. (His is a 58 and it has a good inch of room.)

Sincerely,
Bigfoot

Hi Bigfoot,

I’ve had that same problem before and I know many others who deal with it too. It is commonly referred to as toe overlap.

It’s not uncommon, especially on road bikes with racing geometry. Racing bike = racing geometry = short wheelbase. (Some bikes have very relaxed geometry with a long wheelbase for stability, which is why it doesn’t happen on all bikes.)

Toe overlap can certainly be annoying, but I have come to deal with it. When you know it’s there, it’s relatively easy to avoid.

Remember this: Bikes with toe overlap are made to go fast. When you go fast, you don’t need to turn the wheel to turn – you just lean. So in most cases, you won’t actually notice the wheel/toe overlap.

I usually only notice it when doing a trackstand. In other words, when I’m going very slow or not moving at all, but still turning the front wheel back and forth.

So what you want to do is not turn when going slow. If you do need to turn when going slow, do it with your feet at 6 and 12 o’clock, and don’t twist the bars too far to either side.

It might sound like a big deal, but it’s not bad once you try. It’s pretty simple, and the trackstand is an integral component of bike handling skill, so learning is worthwhile. After a few rides, it should be second nature.

Just don’t buy new cranks or pedals! It won’t help, and it could screw up your bike fit. At your height, I don’t think you want shorter cranks. You’d have to replace the frame and/or fork with a different style to make a noticeable difference, and that’s not the best solution.

Replacing the clips/straps pedals with a clipless system could help ever so slightly, since there won’t be any sort of strap in front of the toe, but that isn’t a guarantee. (The toe overlap would have to be very slight, like 1/4″, for the pedal switch to make a difference.)

Summary: Get used to working around the toe overlap, because that happens on most race frames!

Hydration packs are extremely useful, especially for mountain bikers. You can drink conveniently without taking your hands off the bars, as well as carry a set of tools and accessories.

But once the ride is over, things get tougher. You have to remove the bladder and clean it thoroughly, and don’t forget the bite valve – that thing is tough to clean! (That’s what makes me opt for water bottles when they’re a feasible option.)

The good news is, once you know the drill, keeping your CamelBak’s bladder (or reservoir) clean and fresh isn’t all that difficult.

Part 1: How to Clean Your Hydration Pack

We’ll assume you have a grungy bladder at the moment, so let’s start by cleaning it!

Here are five different ways to clean it:

1. Hot water + baking soda

Fill the bladder with hot water and baking soda. Shake it up and let it sit overnight.

2. Camelbak cleaning kit

You could go all out and get Camelbak’s brush kit and cleaning tablets. It’s nice because everything comes in one package, but it isn’t the cheapest option.

3. Cold water + bleach

Try filling the bladder with cold water and 1 tsp bleach. Let that sit overnight. Just make sure you rinse thoroughly! (If I use bleach, I also clean it with the hot water + baking soda afterward to get rid of the chlorine taste.)

I don’t really like to use harsh substances like bleach, but sometimes you might have to.

4. Denture cleaning tablets

A cheaper alternative to Camelbak tablets is a box of denture cleaning tablets. (Just make sure they are flavorless, unless you want to drink mint-flavored water.)

5. Pipe cleaners and Q-tips

If your main problem is cleaning the tube, try some pipe cleaners! Q-tips also work inside the bite valve.

Part 2: Tips to Keep Your Hydration Pack Clean and Fresh

Now that the reservoir is clean, keep it that way! Here are five more tips that will keep things clean:

1. Only carry water

Without sugary sports drinks, it’s much less likely that mold will grow in the reservoir. I prefer to carry plain water or Nuun in my pack while carrying drinks like Accelerade and Perpetuem in bottles.

2. The freezer

Keep the reservoir in the freezer when not in use. The freezer provides an environment cold enough that mold can’t grow.

3. Concentrate on the bite valve

When cleaning, make sure you get the bleach or soapy water down through the hose and bite valve.

4. Air dry

Hang the reservoir to air dry after each cleaning to be sure it is totally dry.

5. Buy new

If you do carry sports drinks and get mold, it might be too late. The reservoir isn’t the worst problem – the tube and valves are. Ditch the bite valve, because the mold in there is nearly impossible to remove, no matter what detergents and brushes, toothpicks, Q-tips, etc. you try.

Just clean everything, get a new bite valve for $5, and regularly wash it all and store it in the freezer.

Kind of like the explosive push up, but now you clap your hands when you’re up. It is not much harder, but it looks cooler, and it’s more fun.

Step 1: Get into the standard push up position.

Step 2: Lower your chest down to the ground.

Step 3: Instead of rising up like normal, you explode up. That way, your hands come up off the ground. Then, clap your hands together in front of your chest!

When your hands hit back down, absorb shock with arms.

Repeat.

Hand Clap Push Up video:

[video coming soon]

See more exercise guides in The Bodyweight Exercise Collection.